The Two Kings
If you’re printing functional parts, you’re probably choosing between PLA and PETG. Both are great. Both have their place. Let me break down when I reach for each.
PLA — The Reliable Friend
Use when:
- Indoor use only
- Dimensional accuracy matters most
- You want the easiest possible print
- Painting or post-processing planned
- Prototyping (fast, cheap, good enough)
Stats:
- Print temp: 190-220°C
- Bed temp: 50-60°C
- Warping: Almost none
- Strength: Good, but brittle
- Heat resistance: Low (~60°C glass transition)
PLA is my default. I reach for it first unless I have a specific reason not to. It prints clean, bridges well, and comes in every color imaginable.
PETG — The Tough One
Use when:
- Any outdoor application
- Parts that flex or take impact
- Heat exposure (near electronics, in cars)
- Food-adjacent items (still not truly food-safe, but better than PLA)
- Anything that needs to survive being dropped
Stats:
- Print temp: 220-250°C
- Bed temp: 70-80°C
- Warping: Moderate
- Strength: Excellent, with flexibility
- Heat resistance: Better (~80°C)
PETG is my go-to for anything functional that needs to last. It’s slightly stretchier than PLA, which means parts are less likely to snap.
My Decision Tree
- Will it be outside or near heat? → PETG
- Does it need to flex without breaking? → PETG
- Is it a prototype? → PLA
- Does it need to look perfect? → PLA
- Everything else? → PLA (and switch to PETG if it breaks)
The Secret Third Option
For structural parts that need serious strength, I’ve been experimenting with PLA+ (or PLA Pro). It’s a modified PLA with better impact resistance, and it prints almost as easily as regular PLA. Worth trying if you’re printing things like tool holders or mechanical parts.
The Verdict
There’s no wrong answer. PLA for most things, PETG when the environment demands it. The real pro move is keeping both loaded and ready to swap.
Print with what works. Iterate when it doesn’t.